Can the Stans handle the Merck girls?

September 28: In and around Bukhara

Sally and Ang, the answer to your question is yes. I am now the proud owner of a silk Bukhara rug.

Today we visited the shrine of Naqshband  (more fully, Baha-ud-Din Naqshband ) who was the spiritual founder of the Naqshbandi order, one of the largest and most enduring Sufi brotherhoods in the Islamic world.

His shrine just outside Bukhara remains one of Uzbekistan’s holiest pilgrimage sites.

The site includes: his tomb shaded by ancient mulberry trees; a men’s and ladies mosque, guesthouses for pilgrims, a reflecting pool, and the graves of all of the rulers of Bukhara.

Next stop was the Emir’s Summer Palace ( Sitora-i Mohi-Hosa)  meaning “The Palace of the Star and the Moon.” The current palace was constructed between 1912 and 1918 by Emir Abdulahad Khan and Emir Alim Khan, the last ruler of Bukhara.

The design was created by Russian architects working alongside Bukharan craftsmen, combining European neo-classical and traditional Central Asian styles. It is absolutely sumptuous.

The concubines lived in this house opposite the kings platform

Now the last ruler was a pretty big guy, and he had a series of gold embroidered coats made for him ( so they had to be big too) . Some of them weighed up to 35 kg

The palace had beautiful gardens and shaded walkways.

Onto Chor Minor, which means “four minarets”.Built around 1800, it was originally a madrassah but only the gateway survives. On the top you will see a stork nest

Storks are one of the most beloved and enduring symbols of Bukhara, woven into the city’s history, folklore, and even its skyline. For centuries, white storks nested on the domes, minarets, and rooftops of Bukhara.During the Soviet era, stork populations declined sharply, because of urban development, drying wetlands and electrical wiring made nesting difficult. Some nests were even removed to preserve historical monuments.But they are now trying to encourage the return of the stork.

There were a group of Uzbek locals who were thrilled to have their photo taken.

By the way, Warren asked some time ago how the food has been. It’s been really good. Really interesting salads, fantastic tomatoes, great bread, lovely dumplings, and great beef stews (called Plov)