Can the Stans handle the Merck girls?

September 16: Tashkent

As a business class traveller, arriving at Tashkent in Uzbekistan is a real experience. Not only do you have a VIP passport control line, but you also have a separate baggage claim area with lounge chairs and drinks, and some cute little kittens who live immediately outside the airport door ( but visit inside to see what’s going on)

Tashkent has a population of 5-6 million. Here’s a potted history of Tashkent which AI describes as ancient version of a global airport lounge with traders from china, Persia and Europe all passing through, swapping goods and ideas, because it was a key stop on the Silk Road

Tashkent’s story goes way back—over 2,000 years! It started as a settlement called Chach. By the 8th century, Arab conquerors brought Islam to the region, and Tashkent became a centre of learning. Scholars like Al-Khwarizmi (the guy who helped invent algebra!) were part of this intellectual boom.

Then came Genghis Khan in the 13th century—he razed the city, but it bounced back under Timur (Tamerlane) in the 14th century. Tashkent flourished again, with stunning mosques and vibrant trade.

And here we are in front of one of Tamerlane’s statues.

Fast forward to 1865: Russian forces took over during their imperial chess match with Britain. They built railways, European-style buildings, and split the city into “Old” and “New” zones—like a historical version of urban gentrification.

In 1966, a massive earthquake hit, flattening much of the city. The Soviets rebuilt it with wide boulevards and Brutalist architecture. The Tashkent Metro, with its ornate mosaics, became a symbol of Soviet pride.

After Uzbekistan gained independence in 1991, Tashkent began reclaiming its cultural identity. It’s now a vibrant mix of ancient heritage and modern hustle—mosques, bazaars, and tech universities all coexisting in one dynamic city.

Lisa and I arrive late afternoon (Marg had arrived yesterday) and our first outing was to the famous Hotel Uzbekistan which was built 50 years ago and used to be the place where tourists stayed. Lovely sunset view from the bar at the top. And along the way, a lovely mall with lots of activities for children.