Can the Stans handle the Merck girls?

September 16: Travelling to Tashkent

As a business class traveller, arriving in Tashkent is an interesting experience. You have your own passport control area, and your own baggage claim area, replete with lounges ( because it takes some time for the luggage to arrive) and drinks. There’s also a litter of kittens immediately outside the airport and they occasionally wander in to find out what’s going on.

Tashkent has a population of 5-6 million ( so it’s the size of Sydney). Here’s a potted history….courtesy of AI…Tashkent’s story goes way back—over 2,000 years! It started as a settlement called Chach, a key stop on the Silk Road. AI describes  it as the ancient version of a global airport lounge: traders from China, Persia, and Europe all passed through, swapping goods and ideas.

By the 8th century, Arab conquerors brought Islam to the region, and Tashkent became a center of learning. Scholars like Al-Khwarizmi (the guy who helped invent algebra!) were part of this intellectual boom.

Then came Genghis Khan in the 13th century—he razed the city, but it bounced back under Timur (Tamerlane) in the 14th century. Tashkent flourished again, with stunning mosques and vibrant trade. And here we are in front of one of the statues of Timor.

Fast forward to 1865: Russian forces took over during their imperial chess match with Britain. They built railways, European-style buildings, and split the city into “Old” and “New” zones—like a historical version of urban gentrification.

In 1966, a massive earthquake hit, flattening much of the city. The Soviets rebuilt it with wide boulevards and Brutalist architecture. The Tashkent Metro, with its ornate mosaics, became a symbol of Soviet pride.

After Uzbekistan gained independence in 1991, Tashkent began reclaiming its cultural identity. It’s now a vibrant mix of ancient heritage and modern hustle—mosques, bazaars, and tech universities all coexisting in one dynamic city.

Lisa and I arrived in Tashkent in the late afternoon ( Marg had arrived the day before) and our first outing was to see the sunset from the roof of the famous Hotel Uzbekistan, once the choice hotel for tourists ( but now decidedly ageing).Along the way we walked through a very pretty city with parks and malls filled with activities for children.