Can the Stans handle the Merck girls?

September 17: Tashkent

As I mentioned yesterday, the Tashkent Metro, with its ornate mosaics, became a symbol of Soviet pride and we visited it today. It’s actually the first underground metro system in Central Asia—and still one of the most beautiful in the world.

The station above has a cosmonaut theme and features a picture of the first woman astronaut.

The whole thing started back in the 1960s. After the devastating 1966 earthquake in Tashkent, which flattened a huge part of the city, the Soviet authorities decided to rebuild the capital in grand style. They wanted it not only to be modern, but also a showcase city of Central Asia. That’s when the idea of a metro took shape—both as a practical transport solution for a growing population, and as a statement of Soviet ambition.

Construction began in 1972, and the first line opened in 1977. True to Soviet tradition, it wasn’t just about moving people around—it was about impressing them. Every station was built almost like an underground palace. You’ve got marble walls, granite floors, chandeliers, mosaics, and carved pillars. Each station has its own theme, often celebrating Uzbek history, culture, or industry.

Over time, more lines were added. Today, there are four lines covering around 60 kilometers, with plans for more extensions. And the metro isn’t just famous for its design—it’s also incredibly resilient. Remember, it was built during the Cold War, so like other Soviet metros, it was designed to double as a bomb shelter. Some of those big heavy blast doors are still there.

For years, taking photos in the metro was strictly forbidden—partly because of its military function. But since 2018, the ban’s been lifted, and now it’s become a must-see for visitors who want to admire the stations.

At one of the stations, Chorsu, we got off to visit a HUGE bazaar, divided into various sections for clothing, spice, linen ware, nuts (we were ripped off when buying almonds and pistachios paying far too many Uzbek sommes but still cheap by Aussie standards.

There were some very strange cuts of meat, including horse!

After a couple of hours of train hopping from station to station, and a stroll through the bazaar, we returned to our hotel, the Lotte, which has a very impressive entrance.

Sara ventured to the Museum of Applied Arts, taking a hugely expensive taxi ride to get there….$2! Museum had some beautiful tapestries, rugs and strange musical instruments.

We met our travelling partners tonight, over a huge 3-course meal, and apart from a couple, most are of our vintage.

A couple of useless facts about Tashkent:

• The majority of cars on the road are (white) Chevrolets because the govt has a joint venture with the manufacturer
• most of the male workers we saw on the train were wearing white shirts and black pants ( a hark back to Sydney in the 1970s
• 98% of people drink tea….coffee is just not around much